A: Maximum System TDP is the aggregate of the maximum TDP
values for the Processor(s), MCH, and ICH of the grouping you have
chosen or the search feature has found. Note that MCHs & ICHs may have
varying TDP values depending on the number of active memory channels,
the front-side bus speed, and other such factors. Please consult the
respective Thermal Design Guides for the parts in question. For the sake
of safe estimates, we have always chosen the highest possible TDP
What's the difference between Max TDP and Stepping TDP?
A: For processors, the TDP will sometimes vary depending
on the stepping of the processor. The Max TDP is the highest TDP value
of all the steppings. Stepping TDP is the TDP for that particular
stepping of the processor.
A: Halogen Free implies the following: Bromine and/or
chlorine in materials that may be used during processing, but do not
remain within the final product are not included in this definition. The
halogens fluorine (F), iodine (I), and astatine (At) are not restricted
by this standard. “BFR/CFR and PVC-Free” Definition: An article must
meet all of the following requirements to be defined as “BFR/CFR and
PVC-Free”: 1) All PCB laminates must meet Br and Cl requirements for low
halogen as defined in IPC-4101B 2) For components other than PCB
laminates, all homogeneous materials must contain < 900 ppm (0.09%) of
Bromine [if the Bromine (Br) source is from BFRs] and < 900 ppm (0.09%)
of Chlorine [if the Chlorine (Cl) source is from CFRs or PVC. Higher
concentrations of Br and Cl are allowed in homogenous materials of
components other than PCB laminates as long as their sources are not
BFRs, CFRs, PVC. 3) Although the elemental analysis for Br and Cl in
homogeneous materials can be performed by any analytical method with
sufficient sensitivity and selectivity, the presence or absence of BFRs,
CFRs or PVC must be verified by any acceptable analytical techniques
that allow for the unequivocal identification of the specific Br or Cl
compounds, or by appropriate material declarations agreed to between
customer and supplier.
video or audio (no beeps or anything), check to be sure the PC
speaker is connected properly. If it is and you still are getting no
feedback, then you may have a bad motherboard or a device connected
to it is faulty.
be faulty RAM or a CPU. Check the connections between all these
devices and the motherboard. But, nonetheless, since the computer is
doing nothing, something is faulty at the hardware level.
video, but static from the PC speaker, then you need to go after the
motherboard or key system device. Pretty much the same as above.
you're getting a pattern of beeps from the PC speaker, then consult
the beep codes section for a clue as to where to start.
If the system gives you
an error before hanging up, then begin troubleshooting based on that
error. If it does not, then suspect a possible memory failure. If you
have tested the memory and it is fine, then it is probably a faulty
motherboard or key system component. Always, of course, be sure the
memory is fully fastened into the DIMM slots.
It sounds like your
expansion cards may not be fully seated, try reseating these and see
if this helps. If this doesn't help, you can try removing
non-essential cards to narrow down the culprit. Also, if you have
SHADOWING enabled in the BIOS, try disabling this.
You need to go into your
BIOS and adjust the boot order. The boot order controls which order
the system looks at the drives when you turn it on. Adjusting it to A,
then C will make it check the floppy drive before looking for the hard
There may be a problem
with the connection to the hard drive. Usually, in this case, it will
give you some type of error message to clue you in on the problem.
Sometimes, though, a simple CTRL-ALT-DEL will do the trick because
sometimes the hard drives take so long to power up that they aren't
ready when the PC tries to look for it.
This is very often the result of a corrupted BOOT.INI file.
NTLDR is Short for NT Loader, a program loaded from the hard drive
boot sector that displays the Microsoft Windows NT startup menu and
helps Windows NT load.
this as a possible fix in Windows XP:
to the XP CD. When it asks you if you want to install or Repair,
choose Repair. This will take you to the
Choose the XP install to log into, usually there's only 1, and enter
the password when prompted. For Home, the default password is blank.
At the C:\Windows prompt type the following commands:
It is probably your CPU
fan, in which case you can troubleshoot as above. If it isn't the fan,
then there is a problem with some electrical component within the
power supply. This would warrant replacing it.
Well, what do you expect?
The PC gets a power brown out and it thinks the power is turned off,
so it shuts down. Then, when the power comes back, even a second
later, it thinks you turned it back on, so it tries to reboot. The
solution is to get yourself a backup power supply, or UPS.
Well first, make sure the
unit is plugged in and actually getting power. If you have an ATX
system, you need to check the case connectors from the power switch to
the motherboard's Power Switch connectors. Very often, especially when
just building an ATX system, these connectors will be incorrectly
connected and will cause the PC to just sit there dead. You could also
have a short circuit in the case, so check for this as well. If you
rule these things out, then the power supply could be bad.
Over time, your flat
screen monitor can developed smudges or scratches. Many manufactures
have there own method of cleaning these LCD (Liquid Crystal Display)
monitors, so I would always want to steer you in that direction,
especially when still under warranty. There are some general
guidelines I will share though:
It is usually best to turn off your monitor so that you can see the
smudges better. Always use a soft cotton cloth dampened with warm
water and wipe either from top to bottom or side to side. Avoid using
a swirling motion. If a stronger cleaning solution is required, then
you can use a solution of vinegar and water. Your cleaning solution
should be applied to your cloth rather than directly to your screen.
Avoid using Windex or any ammonia-based cleaners as they will yellow
your screen over time.
Is the glare on your
computer giving you headaches or straining your eyes? From experience,
I know how painful a screen glare headache can be. There are a few
steps you can take that may help you cut down on the amount of screen
glare that you are getting. here's how:
Position your computer so that the computer screen is facing away
from the window. Also, be sure that you are not facing the window as
well. A proper screen to window angle should be around 90 degrees.
fine to have sunlight from outside shining in to your office. But,
it is best if this light is defused by using shades or blinds. Even
the use of flat paints will help reduce glare in an office.
having a bright light directly above your work station. If you have
such a light, try (if possible) turning that light off and use a
desk lamp instead.
are not able to avoid the glare from outside or a bright light above
you (or both), you can purchase an anti-glare screen to put on your
recommended resolution for my 17" CRT monitor is 1024x768. But I
prefer to use the resolution 1152x864 at max supported 75 Hz. But
recently since a few months from using the latter resolution, my
monitor gives a audible low-volume, high-pitched continuous whining
sound, which disappears if I change the resolution to 1024x 768 at
85Hz. But reverting back to 1186x864 at 75 Hz doesn't produces any
whine at all.
of the time a monitor will whine because the sealant on the flyback,
which is a high voltage transformer, is coming off or apart. The
reason you hear it is because of the cycle it's going in. You will
have to take it to a shop for them to put sealant on there. DO NOT try to do this yourself due to an
extremely high voltage shock hazard, even when unplugged. It doesn't
hurt the monitor to run this way, but it sure does get annoying!
and would like to find out what specific software and/or hardware I
would need to run a dual monitor setup?
as software goes, you won't need anything else. Windows supports up to
ten monitors. The only hardware that is in question is your video
card. You will need to check with the video card manufacture to be
sure that it supports a dual monitor setup. Additionally, the video
card would need to support the specific monitor that you are adding.
For instance, a video card may support a dual monitor setup but may be
limited to a certain monitor size. Adding a wide-screen monitor may
take your current video card out of the equation.