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What does “Maximum System TDP” mean?

A: Maximum System TDP is the aggregate of the maximum TDP values for the Processor(s), MCH, and ICH of the grouping you have chosen or the search feature has found. Note that MCHs & ICHs may have varying TDP values depending on the number of active memory channels, the front-side bus speed, and other such factors. Please consult the respective Thermal Design Guides for the parts in question. For the sake of safe estimates, we have always chosen the highest possible TDP values.

What's the difference between Max TDP and Stepping TDP?

A: For processors, the TDP will sometimes vary depending on the stepping of the processor. The Max TDP is the highest TDP value of all the steppings. Stepping TDP is the TDP for that particular stepping of the processor.

What does “Intel® SIPP” mean?

A: Intel® Stable Image Platform Program, established in 2003. Delivers standardized HW platform and image stability for 1 year after product launch.

What does Halogen Free Mean?

A: Halogen Free implies the following: Bromine and/or chlorine in materials that may be used during processing, but do not remain within the final product are not included in this definition. The halogens fluorine (F), iodine (I), and astatine (At) are not restricted by this standard. “BFR/CFR and PVC-Free” Definition: An article must meet all of the following requirements to be defined as “BFR/CFR and PVC-Free”: 1) All PCB laminates must meet Br and Cl requirements for low halogen as defined in IPC-4101B 2) For components other than PCB laminates, all homogeneous materials must contain < 900 ppm (0.09%) of Bromine [if the Bromine (Br) source is from BFRs] and < 900 ppm (0.09%) of Chlorine [if the Chlorine (Cl) source is from CFRs or PVC. Higher concentrations of Br and Cl are allowed in homogenous materials of components other than PCB laminates as long as their sources are not BFRs, CFRs, PVC. 3) Although the elemental analysis for Br and Cl in homogeneous materials can be performed by any analytical method with sufficient sensitivity and selectivity, the presence or absence of BFRs, CFRs or PVC must be verified by any acceptable analytical techniques that allow for the unequivocal identification of the specific Br or Cl compounds, or by appropriate material declarations agreed to between customer and supplier.

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Who should I contact if I find an error or want more information?

A: To provide feedback or request information: gesservice@datamini.co.in. Optionally, use the "Send Feedback" link on the left hand side of each page

When I boot the system, the fans turn on, but I see nothing on screen.

This could be caused by many different things.

If no video or audio (no beeps or anything), check to be sure the PC speaker is connected properly. If it is and you still are getting no feedback, then you may have a bad motherboard or a device connected to it is faulty.
Could be faulty RAM or a CPU. Check the connections between all these devices and the motherboard. But, nonetheless, since the computer is doing nothing, something is faulty at the hardware level.
If no video, but static from the PC speaker, then you need to go after the motherboard or key system device. Pretty much the same as above.
If you're getting a pattern of beeps from the PC speaker, then consult the beep codes section for a clue as to where to start.

The system hangs right at or before the memory test on bootup.

If the system gives you an error before hanging up, then begin troubleshooting based on that error. If it does not, then suspect a possible memory failure. If you have tested the memory and it is fine, then it is probably a faulty motherboard or key system component. Always, of course, be sure the memory is fully fastened into the DIMM slots.

The system halts while trying to detect plug-n-play devices.

It sounds like your expansion cards may not be fully seated, try reseating these and see if this helps. If this doesn't help, you can try removing non-essential cards to narrow down the culprit. Also, if you have SHADOWING enabled in the BIOS, try disabling this.

The PC hangs on bootup without accessing either the A drive or C drive.

This usually means that (A) you have no A: drive installed or it is not properly connected, and (B) you have no hard drive connected or it is not properly partitioned and formatted.

The system just boots to the hard disk without ever even looking at the floppy drive.

You need to go into your BIOS and adjust the boot order. The boot order controls which order the system looks at the drives when you turn it on. Adjusting it to A, then C will make it check the floppy drive before looking for the hard drive.

I am trying to boot to a system disk, but the PC just hangs while accessing it.

It is possible that you have a bad diskette. Try another one and see if the problem persists.

The PC hangs when trying to access the hard drive on bootup.

There may be a problem with the connection to the hard drive. Usually, in this case, it will give you some type of error message to clue you in on the problem. Sometimes, though, a simple CTRL-ALT-DEL will do the trick because sometimes the hard drives take so long to power up that they aren't ready when the PC tries to look for it.

NTLDR is missing Press any key to restart

Cause:
This is very often the result of a corrupted BOOT.INI file.

Definition:
NTLDR is Short for NT Loader, a program loaded from the hard drive boot sector that displays the Microsoft Windows NT startup menu and helps Windows NT load.

Try this as a possible fix in Windows XP:

Boot to the XP CD. When it asks you if you want to install or Repair, choose Repair. This will take you to the Recovery console. Choose the XP install to log into, usually there's only 1, and enter the password when prompted. For Home, the default password is blank. At the C:\Windows prompt type the following commands:

FIXBOOT, answer Yes

CD \

ATTRIB -H NTLDR

ATTRIB -S NTLDR

ATTRIB -R NTLDR

ATTRIB -H NTDETECT.COM

ATTRIB -S NTDETEC.COM

ATTRIB -R NTDETECT.COM

COPY X:\I386\NTLDR C:\

COPY X:\I386\NTDETECT.COM C:\

The power supply is whining.

It is probably your CPU fan, in which case you can troubleshoot as above. If it isn't the fan, then there is a problem with some electrical component within the power supply. This would warrant replacing it.

Sometimes the electricity in my house dims and my PC reboots.

Well, what do you expect? The PC gets a power brown out and it thinks the power is turned off, so it shuts down. Then, when the power comes back, even a second later, it thinks you turned it back on, so it tries to reboot. The solution is to get yourself a backup power supply, or UPS.

When I turn the PC on, nothing happens. The power supply does not turn on.

Well first, make sure the unit is plugged in and actually getting power. If you have an ATX system, you need to check the case connectors from the power switch to the motherboard's Power Switch connectors. Very often, especially when just building an ATX system, these connectors will be incorrectly connected and will cause the PC to just sit there dead. You could also have a short circuit in the case, so check for this as well. If you rule these things out, then the power supply could be bad.

I want to connect another device to my system but am out of power leads.

Wow, you must have a very full system. But, this is no problem. Head down to your local Radio Shack and pick up a Y-connector. You can use this to turn one power lead into two.

Monitor out of adjustment

It may be that your Monitor is simply out of adjustment if you are experiencing any of the following symptoms:

Excessive black areas around the picture
Parts of the picture are missing around the edges
Picture scrolls up and down
Incorrect colors
Image is too dark or too bright.

Your adjustment would depend on the monitor you are using. Please visit the manufactures web site for details on how to make the proper adjustments to clear up the above symptom(s).

Cleaning your flat screen monitor

Over time, your flat screen monitor can developed smudges or scratches. Many manufactures have there own method of cleaning these LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) monitors, so I would always want to steer you in that direction, especially when still under warranty. There are some general guidelines I will share though:

It is usually best to turn off your monitor so that you can see the smudges better. Always use a soft cotton cloth dampened with warm water and wipe either from top to bottom or side to side. Avoid using a swirling motion. If a stronger cleaning solution is required, then you can use a solution of vinegar and water. Your cleaning solution should be applied to your cloth rather than directly to your screen. Avoid using Windex or any ammonia-based cleaners as they will yellow your screen over time.

Cut down on screen glare

Is the glare on your computer giving you headaches or straining your eyes? From experience, I know how painful a screen glare headache can be. There are a few steps you can take that may help you cut down on the amount of screen glare that you are getting. here's how:

Position your computer so that the computer screen is facing away from the window. Also, be sure that you are not facing the window as well. A proper screen to window angle should be around 90 degrees.

It is fine to have sunlight from outside shining in to your office. But, it is best if this light is defused by using shades or blinds. Even the use of flat paints will help reduce glare in an office.

Avoid having a bright light directly above your work station. If you have such a light, try (if possible) turning that light off and use a desk lamp instead.

If you are not able to avoid the glare from outside or a bright light above you (or both), you can purchase an anti-glare screen to put on your monitor screen.

Low Volume, High Pitch Whining Sound

Problem:

The recommended resolution for my 17" CRT monitor is 1024x768. But I prefer to use the resolution 1152x864 at max supported 75 Hz. But recently since a few months from using the latter resolution, my monitor gives a audible low-volume, high-pitched continuous whining sound, which disappears if I change the resolution to 1024x 768 at 85Hz. But reverting back to 1186x864 at 75 Hz doesn't produces any whine at all.

Answer:

Most of the time a monitor will whine because the sealant on the flyback, which is a high voltage transformer, is coming off or apart. The reason you hear it is because of the cycle it's going in. You will have to take it to a shop for them to put sealant on there. DO NOT try to do this yourself due to an extremely high voltage shock hazard, even when unplugged. It doesn't hurt the monitor to run this way, but it sure does get annoying!

What do I need to run a dual monitor setup?

Question:

I'm currently running Windows XP and would like to find out what specific software and/or hardware I would need to run a dual monitor setup?

Answer:

As far as software goes, you won't need anything else. Windows supports up to ten monitors. The only hardware that is in question is your video card. You will need to check with the video card manufacture to be sure that it supports a dual monitor setup. Additionally, the video card would need to support the specific monitor that you are adding. For instance, a video card may support a dual monitor setup but may be limited to a certain monitor size. Adding a wide-screen monitor may take your current video card out of the equation.

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